Awesome, gonna buy some wax and that skigo iron.
Any tips on waxing?
Yes I do.
First off - I recommend to get that Iron you mentioned, and also get the Dakine Tune Kit:
It has everything you need including a scrapper, buffer, file, edge tuner, epoxy. It syas the retail is $75, but I found mine for $39.99.
As ratiocinator said - there is different wax colours based on tempature:
Yellow is a warm temperature wax for snow temperatures between 0 degrees Celsius and minus-4 degrees Celsius (32 degrees Fahrenheit and 25 degrees Fahrenheit). Yellow waxes are ideal for spring skiing on velvet corn snow, and skiing in wet, heavy snow, because they help to push the melt layer of water out of the way and leave a thin layer of water for the ski to glide on.
Red wax is for snow temperatures of minus-4 degrees Celsius to minus-10 degrees Celsius (25 degrees Fahrenheit and 18 degrees Fahrenheit). Red wax is a good utility wax for most conditions skiers will encounter in the United States.
Blue wax is for temperatures between minus-10 degrees Celsius and minus-25 degrees Celsius (18 degrees Fahrenheit and minus-22 degrees Fahrenheit). If you are not waxing your skis very often and ski in places such as Wyoming, Montana, New Hampshire, Maine and northern New York, blue wax is best to apply because temperatures that are colder than the snow will not affect you as much as applying waxes for snow temperatures warmer than you are skiing on.
Moly Race Wax
Moly Race Wax is designed for artificial snow, or older snow, that racers typically ski on, and for temperatures between minus-10 degrees Celsius and minus-4 degrees Celsisus (14 degrees Fahrenheit and 25 degrees Fahrenheit)
Personally - I have a orange and red bar as I usually only ride Sun Peaks, Big White and Whistler. But if you intend on riding locals (Cypress, Grouse and Seymour)-- then I recommend having a yellow as well.
When doing the wax - ensure to have an even spread throughout the entire board, allow to dry, then ensure to scrap off as much as you can.
Having tonnes of wax will not make it better, it just means you have to scrap more off. Just need to ensure that you have a layer that is sitting on top, as that means that enough has been 'soaked' into the board.
When done scrapping off the excess - use the buffer to create a smooth service. You want to ensure that with the buffer, you are going tip to tail, creating smooth lines in the wax. This allows the snow to bead off your board, and 'leave' out the back - this ensures that you will get the best results from the wax.