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Good place for steel wool photography?


sakage.shinga

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From experience please pay close attention.

 

1.  Make sure the tether is attached to more than a string around your finger or you'll get friction burn.  Tie it around a soft leather band around 2 or 3 fingers no less than 2 feet long maximum of about 4.

 

2.  Wear a hoodie or something you don't mind trashing, you start the chemical reaction with a  battery and it is burning steel.  You WILL melt holes in your clothing and hair.

 

3.  Find Iconic locations as backdrops and or anywhere with a reflective puddle or surface.  Near The Convention center, any of the beaches or the roadways late night in Stanl;ey park overlooking the LG bridge will work, remember it's long exposure.

 

4.  Be prepared to put fires out, alleys have trash, some areas have grass trees shrubs.  You will attract a lot of attention as well so be prepared for security guards and cops

 

5.  And this is the most important for critical shots.  Slightly under expose a little via aperture and ISO NOT shutter speed as you can blow your highlights very easily.  A straight circular pattern and not a spinning circle will ensure the best quality image during editing.

 

Good luck

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1 hour ago, ajhockey said:

This is what I thought of.

cyampsteel_x-rev.jpg

That's just breath taking my jaw hit the floor such great contrast and the background....  

 

Lol that's what I thought of also.. Why the heck would anyone want to take pictures of steel wool.  But I learned today that it is actually very cool.

 

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2 hours ago, Warhippy said:

From experience please pay close attention.

 

1.  Make sure the tether is attached to more than a string around your finger or you'll get friction burn.  Tie it around a soft leather band around 2 or 3 fingers no less than 2 feet long maximum of about 4.

 

2.  Wear a hoodie or something you don't mind trashing, you start the chemical reaction with a  battery and it is burning steel.  You WILL melt holes in your clothing and hair.

 

3.  Find Iconic locations as backdrops and or anywhere with a reflective puddle or surface.  Near The Convention center, any of the beaches or the roadways late night in Stanl;ey park overlooking the LG bridge will work, remember it's long exposure.

 

4.  Be prepared to put fires out, alleys have trash, some areas have grass trees shrubs.  You will attract a lot of attention as well so be prepared for security guards and cops

 

5.  And this is the most important for critical shots.  Slightly under expose a little via aperture and ISO NOT shutter speed as you can blow your highlights very easily.  A straight circular pattern and not a spinning circle will ensure the best quality image during editing.

 

Good luck

Thanks! Probably go to Crescent Beach first and use that parge gravel parking lot...less risk of fire. We'll have fire extinguishers just in case.

Also would the sparks damage paint on my car? lol

For settings I'll start at iso 200, f/8 and shoot for 30 seconds and go from there. By straight circle I take it you mean straight on to the camera?

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39 minutes ago, sakage.shinga said:

Thanks! Probably go to Crescent Beach first and use that parge gravel parking lot...less risk of fire. We'll have fire extinguishers just in case.

Also would the sparks damage paint on my car? lol

For settings I'll start at iso 200, f/8 and shoot for 30 seconds and go from there. By straight circle I take it you mean straight on to the camera?

Straioght circle meaning spin it in a straight circle don't spin it around your body, 1 360 degree loops

 

It is melting steel.  yes, it WILL damage your car.

 

Try a slower shutter speed, 5.6 at ISO 1200 to ISO 2000 at 15 to 20 seconds.  And make sure you get a coarse wool.  Have had better success with it

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55 minutes ago, Warhippy said:

I specialize in Landscape and architecture but have been working on the lighting for proper environmental portraiture.  This stuff gets expensive fast

really?! do you have a website, etc...? most of my work is out east but I have a house on Kalamalka Lake that I need to find a photographer for within the next little while...

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1 hour ago, Warhippy said:

I specialize in Landscape and architecture but have been working on the lighting for proper environmental portraiture.  This stuff gets expensive fast

 o ya i have a seven yr old canon eos 50d   but i wanna get the 50 mega pixel eos    travel photography  and random stuff ruins, graffiti nature art

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7 hours ago, Warhippy said:

From experience please pay close attention.

 

1.  Make sure the tether is attached to more than a string around your finger or you'll get friction burn.  Tie it around a soft leather band around 2 or 3 fingers no less than 2 feet long maximum of about 4.

 

2.  Wear a hoodie or something you don't mind trashing, you start the chemical reaction with a  battery and it is burning steel.  You WILL melt holes in your clothing and hair.

 

3.  Find Iconic locations as backdrops and or anywhere with a reflective puddle or surface.  Near The Convention center, any of the beaches or the roadways late night in Stanl;ey park overlooking the LG bridge will work, remember it's long exposure.

 

4.  Be prepared to put fires out, alleys have trash, some areas have grass trees shrubs.  You will attract a lot of attention as well so be prepared for security guards and cops

 

5.  And this is the most important for critical shots.  Slightly under expose a little via aperture and ISO NOT shutter speed as you can blow your highlights very easily.  A straight circular pattern and not a spinning circle will ensure the best quality image during editing.

 

Good luck

 

This sounds awfully dangerous!

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12 hours ago, nzan said:

really?! do you have a website, etc...? most of my work is out east but I have a house on Kalamalka Lake that I need to find a photographer for within the next little while...

Shuttered my actual website in lieue of a platform that I am building now.  My site was really basic and was kicking my butt for print sales and bookings due to endless bugs.

 

Are you needing interior shots done at some point or just memory shots?

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12 hours ago, canuktravella said:

 o ya i have a seven yr old canon eos 50d   but i wanna get the 50 mega pixel eos    travel photography  and random stuff ruins, graffiti nature art

NOoooooo dooooon't

 

Falling in to the full frame megapixel war is nonsense.  The issue with something so large in a full format camera such as the new Canons and even the Nikon 800-800e and 810 is that the Mps ensure the file sizes are so high that you immediately need to upgrade your computer which can cost a minimum of $1000 simply to store the files for edit, then of course purchasing off site storage such as online and disk drives which can cost even more  It's crazy.

 

The thing Nikon has done is crushed the Dynamic Range war which is what is important.  The recovery of highlights and shadows to the tune of nearly 3 full stops on even the 600 and 610 series has left canon in the dust.  But with the new mirrorless and full frame pentax/fuji and sony models you're laughing.

 

For travel do NOT buy a massive $3000 full frame camera.  You don't need anything larger than say 20 to 26 MPs which will ensure you can safely blow up a file to 3 foot by 6 foot dimensions (who needs that...) but also saves on file sizes.  The benefit to the mirrorless or even CS frame bodies is how transportable they are.  The sony mirrorles and Fuki models are a literal half size compared to even the new Nikon D7200 (which is the best cs body on the market right now)

 

You're best for travel alone to simply pick up a solid mid grade body and invest in glass.  Right now at London Drugs they have a NIkon D610 with a Nikkor 50mm 1.4g lens which is one of the best 50mm lenses on the market.  And with solid lenses for an FX frame camera starting at $1200 you'll appreciate the savings on the body you purchase.

 

Another benefit I might add to the Sony systems is that the A and E mounts are compatible with Nikkor lenses.  Food for thought

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2 hours ago, Warhippy said:

NOoooooo dooooon't

 

Falling in to the full frame megapixel war is nonsense.  The issue with something so large in a full format camera such as the new Canons and even the Nikon 800-800e and 810 is that the Mps ensure the file sizes are so high that you immediately need to upgrade your computer which can cost a minimum of $1000 simply to store the files for edit, then of course purchasing off site storage such as online and disk drives which can cost even more  It's crazy.

 

The thing Nikon has done is crushed the Dynamic Range war which is what is important.  The recovery of highlights and shadows to the tune of nearly 3 full stops on even the 600 and 610 series has left canon in the dust.  But with the new mirrorless and full frame pentax/fuji and sony models you're laughing.

 

For travel do NOT buy a massive $3000 full frame camera.  You don't need anything larger than say 20 to 26 MPs which will ensure you can safely blow up a file to 3 foot by 6 foot dimensions (who needs that...) but also saves on file sizes.  The benefit to the mirrorless or even CS frame bodies is how transportable they are.  The sony mirrorles and Fuki models are a literal half size compared to even the new Nikon D7200 (which is the best cs body on the market right now)

 

You're best for travel alone to simply pick up a solid mid grade body and invest in glass.  Right now at London Drugs they have a NIkon D610 with a Nikkor 50mm 1.4g lens which is one of the best 50mm lenses on the market.  And with solid lenses for an FX frame camera starting at $1200 you'll appreciate the savings on the body you purchase.

 

Another benefit I might add to the Sony systems is that the A and E mounts are compatible with Nikkor lenses.  Food for thought

 ya the reason i want the full frane 50 megapixel is so i can print wall size prints  ya i need to upgrade my glass for sure maybe il wait another yr 

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