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Buying a Car and the Cost of Maintaining It


RyanKeslord17

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I would find a few different types of cars and check on the insurance cost. I owned a 1984 Nissan 300zx in the early 90s and it was in the corvette insurance bracket. Insurance was too high. Don't go cheap on the insurance either. That could come back and bite you in the butt.

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Hate to be the bearer of bad news but high octane on regular cars (Mazda for the most part is regular) is a waste of money. A Miata doesn't really need to be running 91 or 94 octane. Read this article.

http://www.consumere...vs_premium.html

Gas companies make a huge fortune with people thinking their minivan needs 91 octane. I have personal experience with this.

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Not bad news to me?

I believe it has more to do with the car itself. Certain cars require it, others don't.

I'm not gonna change it now. Its probably done way more help than harm and you were speaking about compression? The car came factory out at 210psi pressure. Think mines at about 190-200 last time I checked. Pretty sure it would need high octane.

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No, it really doesn't have anything to do with "the car itself". An Mx-6 is an Mx-6.

However, if the manual explicitly says to put in high octane, as you mentioned in the OP, it's probably better to do it. However, it's hard to imagine people actually thinking a stock Mx-6 (even with some performance upgrades on top of it) would be considered a 'high performance car'. If you were talking about an RX-7 on the other hand, that would be different.

This thread seems to have a lot of ppl putting in higher performance grade fuel and then there's this post that kinda discredits the whole "high octane = performance".

http://www.mx6.com/f...fuel-worth.html

Think of it this way, you're using the same fuel that is MINIMUM for a Bentley (which uses 91 min). Is it really necessary? If a person is going "cheap" after buying an ultra-expensive car (ala Ferrari, Lamborghini, Maserati etc), then that's stupid.

IMO, I think it's best to get a multiple opinions from auto mechanics that know way more than I do on it.

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I bought a new Civic CX in 1998 and still have it. It doesn't have aircon nor power steering so very little can go wrong. Including oil I'd say I've spent less than 200 per year on maintenance. I'd say maybe double that figure for an older Civic from now on as the first few years cost almost nothing at all besides oil. This year I'm at about a grand as I did the brakes front and back and in 3 years I'll need to do the timing belt and tires. I've had more expensive cars and not only do they break down more often as they have more things that can fail, but they are more expensive to fix when they do break. Buy a 2002 or there a bout's manual Civic for 5 grand or so as your insurance will be more than 2 grand.

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Just read some of the rest of the thread. Use the minimum grade fuel that you can get away with. My friend bought a Beemer (330I?) and he was able to downgrade the fuel one notch. His newer M3 didn't run well at all when he tried a lesser grade. It's all about anti knock so if your car pings upon acceleration then you should up the fuel octane.

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Just read some of the rest of the thread. Use the minimum grade fuel that you can get away with. My friend bought a Beemer (330I?) and he was able to downgrade the fuel one notch. His newer M3 didn't run well at all when he tried a lesser grade. It's all about anti knock so if your car pings upon acceleration then you should up the fuel octane.

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Your friend is going to have a lot of issues with his 330i. A friend of mine just ran into this problem with his 325 which isnt as prefomance as a 330. engines are tuned to run on specific grades of gas unless you have an engine that has sensors (my Volvo does), I know BMW doesn't you will have issues with you o2 sensors injectors and other fuel orientated stuff he had to drop 2500 into his car cause he was too cheap to spend the extra 10$ a fillup

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