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2 hours ago, Boeserker said:

Very nice. Did you mill them in your backyard or take it to a lumber mill? The guys I have talked to say they let the slabs cure for at least 2 years outside. 

 

You might be able to turn your slabs into a table using the epoxy.

 

Some of those concrete c-tops are super nice. Heavy as hell though! Would def make a great fire table.

I took it to a mill near Nanaimo.  Most likely I will use epoxy to fill the voids in the wood.  With the price of epoxy I will probably wait till I have some more wood to work with.  Arbutus is very unstable but it sure looks cool especially with the shape of the piece which has nearly an 90 degree  turn in the grain half way through some of the pieces.  I don’t think it would be good for a large table but smaller wood projects would work.

Edited by riffraff
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2 hours ago, AV's Coin said:

Dude I am renovating my house right now and want to do a concrete hearth - maybe charcoal colour as well. You have any photos?

 

Also want to do a concrete outdoor fire table

Wow that’s uncanny as I am in full Reno now myself.

 

Knocked down the kitchen/living room wall for the open plan look.  So I’m re doing the whole kitchen including appliances, cabinets, countertops.  New floor upstairs as down. Drywalled the ceilings to cover the old popcorn ceiling.  

 

Upstairs bathroom also stripped to the framing.

 

downstairs is 80% done. Again, a wall to a bedroom removed to enlarge the games/tv room.  New panel ceiling and panel half wall.

 

that is all this year.

 

over the last three years I put in all new windows, doors, and most interior doors.  I re-sided the house, built a new deck,  some perimeter drainage and and some rock gardens.

 

i can’t wait till it’s done. I work in construction and I’ve been living in a construction site environment 24/7 for what seems like forever.  

 

There is drywall dust all over as we are i the mudding stage.  I have no shower or cooking appliances. Meanwhile three kids, their sports, and pets.  Figured I would do it all at once and get it over with.  I don’t intend to sell.

 

the hearth is all wrapped up in poly to protect it from the drywallers.

 

i tested a 24” square conc slab first before I made the hearth.

 

i recommend a proper mixer for a project that is a hearth size or bigger.  Obviously it will be easier to mix the amount of Crete needed and it will also enable a better colour mix. I used a dye powder and it worked great as well as being cheap.

 

other key tips for concrete projects:

 

use a melamine sheet for a form.  3/4 or 5/8.  This will eliminate the need to sand finish the slab.  The melamine is totally smooth.  The nerve racking part is what you don’t see in the form is what you will see when it is done.  

 

Use black or coloured silicone sealant at the horizontal/vertical joint transitions.  Finger finish the select bead. This will give you a nice slightly rounded edge on all edges.  It is key to let the silicone dry before pouring the concrete.

 

use drywall screws every six inches minimum to hold the form pieces together.  Pre drill before screwing so you don’t blow the melamine.  You will blow it guaranteed otherwise.

 

let the concrete cure for at least 3-4 weeks. I did this and not so much as a single hairline crack.  Cover the expose concrete in the form with plastic or wet towels to slow the cure.

 

vibrate vibrate and vibrate some more. I used a palm sander with not sandpaper to vibrate the form as I placed the concrete and after it was all placed. This will elongate voids as the air bubbles will rise to the surface.

 

make sure the surface you build the form on and use for the curing time is totally flat and level.  A hearth size form will deflect with the concrete self weight and you will have a convex  and or arched surface if it’s not flat.

 

i used a driveway slab mesh and 10m bar for reinforcement.  A couple lengths of bar will be fine and continuous mesh.

 

its actually all really easy if you have everything ready to go and are patient.

 

the melamine will give a totally smooth finish that needs a buff at most but some wet dry sanding discs on a big orbital wheel will bring out some aggregate if you’re after that look.  600-1000 grit.

 

good luck.

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1 hour ago, debluvscanucks said:

I have always loved to write - mostly poetry.  That's been a go to for me for years.

 

Photography, although I have to get a better camera.   I love nature photography - I usually combine that with biking (bike to the dyke trails with my camera).

 

My daughter inspires me to be better...she is SO talented (does poi, fire staff, juggles, does pottery, etc.).  Her latest venture is jewelry - all hand knotted stuff, it's just beautiful.   I'm going to do some with her soon.

No photo description available.Image may contain: jewelry

 

Because she's always trying/doing new things, I've started to rethink my life and how I spend my time as well.  Am going to start doing some sort of paddling/dragon boat type stuff soon.  I've always wanted to try a martial art so am considering that as well.

 

Right now, looking after Dad post surgery.  But...soon....

 

 

Very pretty. Big fan of those colours.  Any marine colour is a favourite.  

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1 hour ago, riffraff said:

Wow that’s uncanny as I am in full Reno now myself.

 

Knocked down the kitchen/living room wall for the open plan look.  So I’m re doing the whole kitchen including appliances, cabinets, countertops.  New floor upstairs as down. Drywalled the ceilings to cover the old popcorn ceiling.  

 

Upstairs bathroom also stripped to the framing.

 

downstairs is 80% done. Again, a wall to a bedroom removed to enlarge the games/tv room.  New panel ceiling and panel half wall.

 

that is all this year.

 

over the last three years I put in all new windows, doors, and most interior doors.  I re-sided the house, built a new deck,  some perimeter drainage and and some rock gardens.

 

i can’t wait till it’s done. I work in construction and I’ve been living in a construction site environment 24/7 for what seems like forever.  

 

There is drywall dust all over as we are i the mudding stage.  I have no shower or cooking appliances. Meanwhile three kids, their sports, and pets.  Figured I would do it all at once and get it over with.  I don’t intend to sell.

 

the hearth is all wrapped up in poly to protect it from the drywallers.

 

i tested a 24” square conc slab first before I made the hearth.

 

i recommend a proper mixer for a project that is a hearth size or bigger.  Obviously it will be easier to mix the amount of Crete needed and it will also enable a better colour mix. I used a dye powder and it worked great as well as being cheap.

 

other key tips for concrete projects:

 

use a melamine sheet for a form.  3/4 or 5/8.  This will eliminate the need to sand finish the slab.  The melamine is totally smooth.  The nerve racking part is what you don’t see in the form is what you will see when it is done.  

 

Use black or coloured silicone sealant at the horizontal/vertical joint transitions.  Finger finish the select bead. This will give you a nice slightly rounded edge on all edges.  It is key to let the silicone dry before pouring the concrete.

 

use drywall screws every six inches minimum to hold the form pieces together.  Pre drill before screwing so you don’t blow the melamine.  You will blow it guaranteed otherwise.

 

let the concrete cure for at least 3-4 weeks. I did this and not so much as a single hairline crack.  Cover the expose concrete in the form with plastic or wet towels to slow the cure.

 

vibrate vibrate and vibrate some more. I used a palm sander with not sandpaper to vibrate the form as I placed the concrete and after it was all placed. This will elongate voids as the air bubbles will rise to the surface.

 

make sure the surface you build the form on and use for the curing time is totally flat and level.  A hearth size form will deflect with the concrete self weight and you will have a convex  and or arched surface if it’s not flat.

 

i used a driveway slab mesh and 10m bar for reinforcement.  A couple lengths of bar will be fine and continuous mesh.

 

its actually all really easy if you have everything ready to go and are patient.

 

the melamine will give a totally smooth finish that needs a buff at most but some wet dry sanding discs on a big orbital wheel will bring out some aggregate if you’re after that look.  600-1000 grit.

 

good luck.

Awesome tips. I've watched a few youtube videos for concrete counters and recognize a lot of what you are saying as well .... melamine and black sealant, lots of vibrating etc.

 

you did not have too polish/wet grind the exposed sides? I guess if you vibrate enough you get the cream to the top and it gives a nice smooth surface?

 

My reno seems to be the exact same stage as yours lool.

 

Only have a toilet (go to my moms for showers and washing clothes). Kitchen and one bedroom is functional but everything else is construction zone. Just getting to the mudding stage. First time drywalling so been watching lots of youtube videos on that as well...

Edited by AV's Coin
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5 hours ago, Fanuck said:

I tie a lot of flies. 

It's pretty addictive, if you're into that sort of thing. 

Tieing flies is awesome. Was never really good at it but mainly enjoyed tieing some steelhead flies.

 

My funniest fly was for Pink Salmon along some Van Island beaches. Literally only a hook and three short strands of green deer hair. It worked as well as pink handlebars etc...!!!!

Edited by AV's Coin
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1 hour ago, riffraff said:

Wow that’s uncanny as I am in full Reno now myself.

 

Knocked down the kitchen/living room wall for the open plan look.  So I’m re doing the whole kitchen including appliances, cabinets, countertops.  New floor upstairs as down. Drywalled the ceilings to cover the old popcorn ceiling.  

 

Upstairs bathroom also stripped to the framing.

 

downstairs is 80% done. Again, a wall to a bedroom removed to enlarge the games/tv room.  New panel ceiling and panel half wall.

 

that is all this year.

 

over the last three years I put in all new windows, doors, and most interior doors.  I re-sided the house, built a new deck,  some perimeter drainage and and some rock gardens.

 

i can’t wait till it’s done. I work in construction and I’ve been living in a construction site environment 24/7 for what seems like forever.  

 

There is drywall dust all over as we are i the mudding stage.  I have no shower or cooking appliances. Meanwhile three kids, their sports, and pets.  Figured I would do it all at once and get it over with.  I don’t intend to sell.

 

the hearth is all wrapped up in poly to protect it from the drywallers.

 

i tested a 24” square conc slab first before I made the hearth.

 

i recommend a proper mixer for a project that is a hearth size or bigger.  Obviously it will be easier to mix the amount of Crete needed and it will also enable a better colour mix. I used a dye powder and it worked great as well as being cheap.

 

other key tips for concrete projects:

 

use a melamine sheet for a form.  3/4 or 5/8.  This will eliminate the need to sand finish the slab.  The melamine is totally smooth.  The nerve racking part is what you don’t see in the form is what you will see when it is done.  

 

Use black or coloured silicone sealant at the horizontal/vertical joint transitions.  Finger finish the select bead. This will give you a nice slightly rounded edge on all edges.  It is key to let the silicone dry before pouring the concrete.

 

use drywall screws every six inches minimum to hold the form pieces together.  Pre drill before screwing so you don’t blow the melamine.  You will blow it guaranteed otherwise.

 

let the concrete cure for at least 3-4 weeks. I did this and not so much as a single hairline crack.  Cover the expose concrete in the form with plastic or wet towels to slow the cure.

 

vibrate vibrate and vibrate some more. I used a palm sander with not sandpaper to vibrate the form as I placed the concrete and after it was all placed. This will elongate voids as the air bubbles will rise to the surface.

 

make sure the surface you build the form on and use for the curing time is totally flat and level.  A hearth size form will deflect with the concrete self weight and you will have a convex  and or arched surface if it’s not flat.

 

i used a driveway slab mesh and 10m bar for reinforcement.  A couple lengths of bar will be fine and continuous mesh.

 

its actually all really easy if you have everything ready to go and are patient.

 

the melamine will give a totally smooth finish that needs a buff at most but some wet dry sanding discs on a big orbital wheel will bring out some aggregate if you’re after that look.  600-1000 grit.

 

good luck.

Im in the middle of a full house plus yard reno.Wasnt started by me so trying to figure put stuff that was done is tuff

Edited by Violator
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2 hours ago, riffraff said:

I took it to a mill near Nanaimo.  Most likely I will use epoxy to fill the voids in the wood.  With the price of epoxy I will probably wait till I have some more wood to work with.  Arbutus is very unstable but it sure looks cool especially with the shape of the piece which has nearly an 90 degree  turn in the grain half way through some of the pieces.  I don’t think it would be good for a large table but smaller wood projects would work.

 

Ya epoxy is a bit of an enigma to me as I haven't used it before. It's expensive ad apparently some ca turn yellow over time so I haven't committed to any epoxy projects just yet.

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3 hours ago, debluvscanucks said:

I have always loved to write - mostly poetry.  That's been a go to for me for years.

 

Photography, although I have to get a better camera.   I love nature photography - I usually combine that with biking (bike to the dyke trails with my camera).

 

My daughter inspires me to be better...she is SO talented (does poi, fire staff, juggles, does pottery, etc.).  Her latest venture is jewelry - all hand knotted stuff, it's just beautiful.   I'm going to do some with her soon.

No photo description available.Image may contain: jewelry

 

Because she's always trying/doing new things, I've started to rethink my life and how I spend my time as well.  Am going to start doing some sort of paddling/dragon boat type stuff soon.  I've always wanted to try a martial art so am considering that as well.

 

Right now, looking after Dad post surgery.  But...soon....

 

 

Have you guys considered bead making? You can get kits that Coe with glass rods, some accessories and stuff. Then you buy MAP Gas (like acetylene or propane but in the Yellow containers) and you ca make your own glass beads.  Another thing on my list to try someday.

 

https://www.amazon.com/Fireworks-FW632-Beginners-Beadmaking-Kit/dp/B000C11SD0/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=glass+bead+making+kit&qid=1559269139&s=gateway&sr=8-3

 

I have this one been sitting in my closet for years and never got around to it. Going to open it with my daughter one day.

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1 hour ago, Stamkos said:

Keeping up with the music theme, I’d love to learn how to play the drums. I’ve always tapped my fingers/feet to the beat. 

Please do. 

Its a source, like surfing.

 

I've been playing since i was a kid. 

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Guitar.   Finally graduate from the Rush, Van Halen and Swedish Metal level to the point where I can play most anything by Tremonti/AlterBridge and similar but not yet able to master Yngwie and Petrucci (Dream Theatre) level - that is next quest!

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6 hours ago, Boeserker said:

 

How much does a surfboard blank cost? Are they 100% fibreglass or is it a wood core/stabilizer at all?

Surf blanks are typically either poly urethane foam or EPS foam with a wood stringer (usually some sort of ply) in them. They come in different sizes so you pick a size as close as possible to what you want to shape. Once you shape the blank you glass with fiberglass usually two 4oz glass layers on top and one 4oz layer on bottom.

 

A shortboard blank around 6'6" is going for around $75 USD it seems. Long boards closer to $100 USD. This website has blanks and full kits to make surfboards. Its the shipping that will kill you though.

 

https://greenlightsurfsupply.com/

 

Greenlight has a lot of info on how to make a board and what you need.

 

If you are in the lower mainland you could make a short trip south of the border to Mt Vernon and get everything you need at this place. You can fill up on gas while you are at it as well!!!

 

http://www.fiberglasssupply.com/

 

I simply bought a bunch of 2# EPS foam blocks from Plast-Fab in Delta. Foam costs about $30 CDN avg for a board. Buy a piece of 3/16" or 1/4" marine ply and cut several stringers from it and glue the stringers in between two blocks of foam and you have a blank.

 

Some of my boards I am trying no stringer and use 1" or so carbon strip down the center, top and bottom, when you lay the glass. Like these http://carbonwrap.lostsurfboards.net/

 

you can get epoxy and glass locally. Note some resin is not compatible with one of poly urethane foam or EPS. Cant remember which, except epoxy works with EPS, but info on Greenlight will tell you what resin you can use with what foams.

 

Fin boxes and leash plugs can be ordered from greenlight or fiberglass supply or other sites.  A lot of tools can be made or ordered.

 

Templates can be bought or made. There is free 3D CAD software out there for designing a board that is pretty easy to use. Like BoardCAD  https://www.boardcad.com/

 

some have a small monthly fee but more options.

 

You can print out your own templates for outlines and rockers and start shaping your dream craft.

 

 

 

 

Edited by AV's Coin
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3 hours ago, Boeserker said:

 

Ya epoxy is a bit of an enigma to me as I haven't used it before. It's expensive ad apparently some ca turn yellow over time so I haven't committed to any epoxy projects just yet.

Nor have I.  Looking forward to it but yes, I need more wood(s) and time.

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3 hours ago, AV's Coin said:

Awesome tips. I've watched a few youtube videos for concrete counters and recognize a lot of what you are saying as well .... melamine and black sealant, lots of vibrating etc.

 

you did not have too polish/wet grind the exposed sides?

No, but I can still.  The more you do the more the cross section appears.

3 hours ago, AV's Coin said:

I guess if you vibrate enough you get the cream to the top and it gives a nice smooth surface?

Yes.  You can buff off the cream.  I bought a 7” corded grind wheel from CanTire.  Came with a buff wheel and you can purchase a complete array of sand paper wheels and grind wheels.

3 hours ago, AV's Coin said:

 

My reno seems to be the exact same stage as yours lool.

 

Only have a toilet (go to my moms for showers and washing clothes). Kitchen and one bedroom is functional but everything else is construction zone. Just getting to the mudding stage. First time drywalling so been watching lots of youtube videos on that as well...

Good luck and have fun.

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